Apparatus for effecting alignment of pattern pieces on garment fabric



June 19, 1934. J BONANNQ 1,963,773

APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING ALIGNMENT OF PATTERN PIECES ON GARMENT FABRIC Filed Sept. 12, 1931 Fig.1 5

INVENTOR Patented June 19 1934 PATIENT OFFICE APPARATUS FOB EFFECTING OI PATTERN PIECES FABRIC ALIGNMENT ON GARMENT John Bonanno, New York, N. Y.

Application September 12, 1931, Serial No. 562,498

lclaims.

This invention relates to a method of preparing garment pieces and marking paper used in the nnnufacture of various articles of clothing and has for a general object the provision with pattern pieces having orienting lines thereon of such a marking paper, which is a material aid to a cutter, eliminates to a maximum degree the possibility of errors in cutting garments and provides an efiicient means for increasing the speed of oper- 1 ations of cutters thereby reducing the manufacturing cost of garments and the waste of materials attendant upon the practice of present methods, and the provision of an improved and efficient method of preparing garment pieces with the use of. such marking paper.

A more specific object of the invention is the provision with pattern pieces having orienting lines thereon of such a marking paper provided with suitable marks or characters which aid the 0 cutter in laying out pattern pieces thereon in the proper location and orientation, provide efficient measuring means and positive guide for bias cuts, and reduce to a minimum the probabflity of error, loss of material and unnecessary cost attendant upon the improper cutting of pieces from garment material.

Further objects of the invention are the provision with pattern pieces having orienting lines of such marking paper provided with a plurality 30 of markings or characters defining multi-directional control lines having a predetermined directional relationship with regard to the warp of the fabric to be used in the formation of garments and adapted to be located thereunder, the orient- 36 ing line of each of the pattern pieces being adapted'locally to register with one of the adjacent control lines on the marking paper when the pattern pieces are laid out thereon in any desired location; and the provision of an efficient method of preparing accurately formed garment pieces with the disposition of such control lines upon the fabric such as by the use of such marking paper after the latter has been laid over the fabric preparatory to the severance of the fabric into various garment pieces of the desired shape.

Other objects of the invention will in part be obvious and will in part appear hereinafter.

The invention accordingly comprises an article of manufacture possessing the features, properties, and the relation of elements which will be exemplified in the article hereinafter described 5 objects of the invention reference should be had to the following detailed description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a portion of a strip of marking paper made in accordance with the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of a pattern piece; and

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the marking paper of the present invention showing the lay-out of the various parts of the garment thereon with the aid of pattern pieces, one of which is depicted in Fig. 2.

Prior to the present invention in the manufacture of various types of garments, it has been the common practice to prepare pattern pieces which 10 together constitute the make-up of a garment, each piece being properly marked with an orienting arrow or line to indicate the proper orientation of the pattern piece upon the fabric, that is, the proper direction with respect to the warp 76 of the fabric in that piece. In the cutting room:

a strip of blank marking paper of the proper width for the fabric from which the garment is to be cut is laid out on a table and the pattern pieces are then assembled on the marking paper, 80 the cutter carefully arranging the pieces in an attempt to obtain a parallel relationship between the line or arrow on each pattern piece and the edge of the marking paper. The outlines of the pattern pieces are then marked upon the marking 86 paper and the fabric is then cut up into pieces preferably by a power driven cutting machine in accordance with the outlines of the pattern pieces marked upon the marking paper which has been superposed on the fabric to be cut.. 'This method 90 is followed to allow the cutter to cutout any desired number of garment pieces of the same size for the same style.

Extreme care on the part of the cutters is required to insure the proper parallel relationship between the orienting arrow or line on the pattern pieces and the edge of the marking paper. Even with the exercise of great care, errors frequently occur since the alignmentmust be performed by a crude method of measuring from the edge of the marking paper to the relatively short orienting arrow or line on the pattern piece at two or more points. When such errors occur, there is the consequent ruin of large quantities of fabric. Such errors have been so commonly experienced in the manufacture of garments as to be considered unavoidable. The present invention not only eliminates to a substantial degree such errors, but also provides such aids to the cutter as to materially reduce the amount of time required in marking the patterns on the marking paper and to substantially eliminate losses of material and time heretofore considered unavoidable.

Throughout the drawing, like numerals indicate like parts. InFig. 1 a marking paper made in accordance. with the present invention is indicated by numeral 4. This marking paper is provided with a plurality of marks or characters, preferably dots 5, preferably so arranged upon the paper as to constitute two series of parallel rows or lines, the lines of one series running transversely of the paper and the rows or lines of the other series running parallel to the edge of the paper. Such marks or characters may be dots, as shown in the preferred form, asterisks, continuous lines or any other desired symbols. When individual dots or symbols are used, they are preferably arranged upon the marking paper to be spaced apart a definite distance, such as for example, one inch. Such an arrangement not only provides the two series of rows or lines mentioned above, but also constitutes a substantial aid in the making of measurements. The edge of the paper is preferably provided with a series of marks 6, spaced apart a definite distance, such as, for example, a quarter of a yard, each mark being properly identified such that exact measurements in length may be obtained without the use of the usual yard stick. This feature can be materially enhanced by the use of a second series of marks 7, along the opposite edge of the marking paper, with identifying marks running in the opposite direction, as shown in Fig. 1.

Any quality of marking paper commonly used, such as, for example, those commonly termed "news, vanilla, tissue, etc., may be provided in a plurality of widths, such as, for example, 36 inches, 38 inches, 39 inches, 40 inches, etc., common to the present practice. This marking paper, which is usually obtained in large rolls, is to be provided with the marks or characters set forth above prior to distribution to the manufacturers of garments.

In use, the series of marks or characters perform their functions in the following manner: In laying out pattern pieces on the marking paper, it is a very simple matter to align the orienting arrow or line on the pattern piece with a line running parallel to the edge of the paper constituted by a row of dots or symbols as shown'at 8 in Fig. 3, thus insuring exact orientation of the warp of the fabric in each piece when the edge of the marking paper is properly aligned with the edge of the fabric, or positioned properly on the fabric in any other suitable manner. Furthermore, the exact spacing of the dots or symbols provides a simple means of measuring, when desired.

In addition, in laying out pattern pieces on the marking paper, the series or rows of dots or symbols of the preferred form provide a plurality of parallel'transverse lines for use in placing pieces at right angles to the'warp of the fabric. This is desired in the formation of many garments and parts thereof, and is found to present a greater difllculty in the practice of present methods than does the exact alignment with the warp of the fabric, since the orienting lines or arrows on the pattern pieces will be disposed at right angles to the edge of the marking paper, but is obviously as easily obtained with the use of the present marking paper as is the alignment with the warp of the fabric.

The plurality of marks or characters also forms a substantial aid in cutting pieces on the bias, since the marks or characters constitute bias lines when diagonally considered. This will be more easily understood by an inspection of Fig. 3, wherein the skirt piece 8 is depicted as laid out with the arrow in alignment with the warp of the fabric and the edge 9 thereof laid out on a true bias. I

A series of yard markings 6 form a ready means for measuring the length of a strip of goods in one direction, while a series of markings 7 provide the same aid for measuring in the opposite direction, thus making possible the use of the edge of the marking paper as a yard measure from either side..

By the use of marks arranged exactly one inch apart, a simple means for obtaining a proper width of binding is provided. Binding material usually consists of strips of material cut on the bias and of a width of about 1% inches. By a simple mathematical calculation, it will be seen that this width is substantially the diagonal distance between two dots on the marking paper. Binding material on a true bias cut can thus be formed by simply cutting along parallel diagonal ,lines drawn through the marks.

It will thus be seen that in accordance with the present invention a marking paper is provided which efficiently attains the objects set forth above by insuring the proper cutting of fabric with regard to the warp thereof in a simple manner requiring a minimum of skill and time, and experience has shown that it practically eliminates the likelihood of costly errors, due to the fact that straight control lines are provided at any point running both transversely of and longitudinally of the marking paper, as are also true bias lines.

It is to be understood that continuous lines, running both transversely of and longitudinally of the marking paper may be substituted for the dots shown in the drawing, bias lines being provided by the alignment of the points at which these lines cross, or that any desired type of symbols may be substituted for these dots, that the control lines may bear any desired geometrical relationship to each other, other than that shown to obtain other relationships between the warp of the fabric and the garment pieces, or the same relationship by proper alteration of the orienting lines on the pattern pieces with regard to the formation and direction of the control lines, and that the following claims are intended to cover all the generic and specific features of the invention herein described and all statements of the scope of the invention which, as a matter of language, may be said to fall therebetween.

Since certain changes may be made in the above article and different embodiments of the invention could be made without departing from the scope thereof, it is intended that all'matter contained in the above description or shown in the accompanying drawing shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having described my invention, what I claim as newand desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. Apparatus for effecting alignment of pattern pieces on relatively extensive garment fabric, comprising a marking paper for use with a garment manufacturers pattern piece having an orienting line thereon, said paper being provided with orienting characters distributed substantially entirely over the surface of said paper, said characters defining multi-directional con- 15o trOl lines having a predetermined directional relationship with the warp of the garment fabric adapted to be located thereunder, whereby the orienting line on said pattern 'piece may be locally registered with one of the adjacent control lines directly to orient the pattern piece in any desired location on said garment fabric.

2. Apparatus for effecting alignment of pattern pieces on relatively extensive garment fabric, comprising a marking paper for use with a garment manufacturer's pattern piece having an orienting line thereon, said paper being provided with a plurality of dots, distributed substantially entirely over the surface of said paper, said dots being arranged in parallel rows running both transversely of and longitudinally of said paper with the transverse rows disposed at right angles to the longitudinal rows and the latter being disposed parallel to the edge of said paper, to have a predetermined directional relationship with regard to the warp of the garment fabric adapted to be located thereunder, whereby the orienting line on said pattern piece may be aligned with one of the adjacent control lines provided by a row of said dots directly to orient the pattern piece in any desired location on the said garment fabric. 1

3. Apparatus for effecting aligmnent of pattern pieces on relatively extensive garment fabric, comprising a marking paper for use with a garment manufacturers pattern piece having an orienting line thereon, said paper being provided with a plurality of dots distributed substantially entirely over the surface of said paper, said dots being arranged in parallel rows spaced an inch apart running both transversely of and longitudinally of said paper with the transverse rows disposed at right angles to the longitudinal rows to have a predetermined directional relationship with regard to the warp of the garment fabric adapted to be located thereunder, and markings arranged along at least one edge of said paper to indicate length, whereby the orienting line on said pattern piece may be aligned with one of the adjacent control lines provided by a row of said dots directly to orient the pattern piece in any desired location on the said garment fabric.

4. In apparatus for effecting alignment on relatively extensive garment fabric, of garment manufacturers pattern pieces each having at least one orienting line thereon, a garment manufacturers marking paper provided with a plurality of dots such as to cover substantially the entire surface of said paper, said dots being arranged in parallel rows spaced an inch apart and running both transversely of and longitudinally of said paper.

JOHN BONANNO. 

